Best Crags

Best Crags

These are some of the best places to climb in the Peak District. Many people will argue with the crags listed, but I cannot place a crag in the list without having climbed on it. When I do climb on other crags worthy of inclusion I will change the list or add to it.

I have considered the English weather and have deliberately included suitable places to climb in the rain or in winter (hence some apparently unusual choices!).

The descriptions, photos and maps hopefully provide enough information to help the occasional visitor make up their mind.
This information is intended to supplement the already excellent guide books available, I recommend that occasional visitors get their hands on a copy of “On Peak Rock” a BMC publication (ISBN 0 903908 91 3). It must be noted that some of the definitive guidebooks suggested are current, but out of date particularly with reference to sport climbing.

Sport climbing is better covered in “Peak Limestone Rockfax” (ISBN 1 873341 10 5) which serves a need, but is poor quality and value compared to BMC guidebooks. For bang up-to-date info on sport climbing visit Gary Gibson’s Climb High Site, look at the new BMC Wye Valley guide or wait for the new Peak Limestone Rockfax. If you have any specific questions contact me, and if I can, I will help.

Stanage Edge Contender for the best and most popular grit edge in the Peak
Froggatt Edge Very Popular, Superb Slabs
Stoney Middleton Steeped in Limestone climbing history with classic routes
Horseshoe Quarry Why? read and find out!
Chee Tor Fantastic setting, cracking routes, enjoyed by many
Chee Dale Crags Wye Valley Lots of choice of style and grade
Gardoms Edge Secluded climbing, good routes and bouldering
The Roaches Superb in all respects has everything and more
Cratcliffe Tor The highest density of quality grit climbs in the Peak District?
Willersley Easily accessible cool summer limestone climbing
Birchens Edge Great for families and beginners
Burbage North and South All grades including the hardest trad climbs in the world.
Ravensdale Quiet memorable mid-grade limestone climbing
Black Rocks Outstanding slopey rounded grit (if you like that sort of thing!)
Millstone Edge Probably the finest and most popular gritstone quarry in the Peak